NUTRITION AND CARE PROGRAM FOR PUPPIES FROM OUR KENNEL
Serve daily: always available fresh, lukewarm, boiled mineral water, can also be served straight from the tap, as long as it is not heavily chlorinated, the best is standing.
Puppies from our kennel are fed with JOSERA FAMILI PLUS, then they switch to JOSERA KIDS
Puppies up to 3 months of age are given 4 meals a day (try to keep the food on it was soaked because the puppy and adult dog will get up at night to drink the food after dry food, soak it with slightly warm, boiled water (not hot because the food will lose its vitamins). We do not keep the soaked food in a bowl until the morning, because it will be skipped.
It is important not to strictly stick to the tables given on the dog's food, as each of us has a better appetite one day, another time it is worse. Treat the tables more like suggestions of how much the dog should eat.
It is best to pour the daily portion of food into the bowl in the morning according to age and let the dog fill himself to his heart's content. If he leaves the bowl, we wait 15 minutes or by chance something has distracted him and he is still hungry, if after 15 minutes he is not still interested in the bowl, put it aside, leaving the water behind. Then serve the bowl with food for the next meal.
In this way, we can easily check how much our dog eats daily or we have to sprinkle him for the evening meal or if he has too much of it.
It is also worth adding something else instead of feed for one meal, e.g. once 4 tablespoons of minced-boiled beef, the next time a soft-boiled egg (once a week and shredded), the next time a semi-skimmed cottage cheese.
When feeding a new meal for the first time, no more than a teaspoon to check how the stomach will absorb the new food.
SPANIELS HAVE SENSITIVE STOMACHES EASILY FOR REVOLUTIONS THEREFORE NEW WE INTRODUCE FOODS GRADUALLY !!!
WE KEEP POLARITY WITH SMART OR ANOTHER PREPARATION FOR INFANTS IN THE SAME PROPOSALS.
From 3-4 months, depending on your appetite, you can start giving 3 meals, then 2 meals a day for the rest of your life.
Dry in the morning, soaked in the evening
You can give them in small amounts: fruit and vegetables (apart from citrus, cabbage grapes, beans, peas), you can give your puppy a little apple, banana, wild strawberry, strawberry, watermelon, crisps without spices, sticks - preferably not salted. carrots, because as an adult dog he will not want to eat them
DO NOT ADMINISTER: No bones, only a calf cooked large enough that the puppy and adult dog cannot eat it, but only chew on itself. Milk in general because most dogs (of course there are exceptions) have diarrhea because they do not digest the lactose contained in cow's milk and they accumulate unnecessarily in their tiny stomachs. Sweets, crisps, cakes, etc., additional vitamins (they are all in the feed
Important is to continue feeding with the same food that the toddler was fed in the kennel, which would add additional stress to the dog
CARE
When the eyes are watering, rinse with lukewarm boiled water (not chamomile or tea - the coat turns yellow) and it is best to wipe it with a tissue or gauze. can be rinsed with a firefly or normal saline.
Discharge collects in the corners of uncleaned eyes and can cause skin irritation and even wounds.
Trimming the claws - e.g. once a week with a 1mm guillotine (not with nail clippers because they crush the claw before cutting it - it is painful and the puppy will tear the paw out.
We shorten the claws as needed.
Usually more often for dogs that mainly walk on soft ground, e.g. grass. When cutting, care must be taken not to damage living tissue. If we damage the core and blood appears at the end of the claw, the wound must be disinfected and covered with talcum powder. If the claws are rarely shortened and the dog walks with grown claws for a long time, the core in the nail grows further and further - smaller and smaller pieces can be cut off without the risk of damaging the living tissue. Therefore, it is better not to neglect this activity. In addition, long claws may deform the paws and make it difficult to walk, and in extreme cases, injure the paws.
If the breeder did not remove the so-called fifth claws, you need to take special care of them. They do not come into contact with the ground, so the dog is not able to rub them off. These claws, if completely uncontrolled, can become entangled in the footpad.
Let's not run to the vet with this, why stress the dog is a simple procedure, it is enough in the evening when the dog falls asleep tired on our knees, shorten his claws by a millimeter once a week.
Hair care - Regular hair shortening on the paws and between the pads is part of the regular routine.
You should also cut the hair in the genital area. If we leave our hair there, it will be constantly wet when we pee. Moisture and pollution will then favor the growth of bacteria and fungi.
It's also a good idea to cut hair around the anus. Part of the excrement may remain on the hairs of clumsy babies, especially. Therefore, you should check if the hair around the butt is clean and, if necessary, wash it so that the remaining poop does not cause chafing.
Wash with warm water with the addition of puppy shampoo or gray soap).
Every day we brush the puppy very gently, if you neglect it, the puppy will forget that it was brushed in the breeding farm and will not want to be combed when he gets older.
We chose our dream baby, we brought him home, now we have to consider whether we want our pet to have a full cover or we are going to cut it.
It is not that difficult to care for a long robe. However, it requires willingness and daily combing. Of course, our puppy must inherit the appropriate type of hair from his ancestors.
We teach the dog to daily hygiene after eating, especially when wet, and after drinking, we wipe the mouth clean.
BATH
Most new owners face the dilemma of when to bathe a puppy for the first time? Contrary to popular belief, you can bathe completely small puppies. Usually, the first bath is done while still in the farm. The first bath is very important, we must be careful not to alienate the baby. It is best to bathe the pooch after the last evening walk. When we have a lot of time and we are relaxed, the dog is also tired of playing. It is important that the dog treats his first bath as fun. We collect the accessories we need for bathing at hand, so that we do not have to look for anything during it:
-shampoo,
- conditioner, - check the labels because some shampoos and conditioners require dilution, if so, prepare a bowl or jug to mix the shampoo and conditioner with water (preferably made of plastic, a glass one can break and injure the pooch),
- a large towel,
- dryer, preferably with airflow and temperature regulation,
- combing tools (brush, comb),
At the bottom of the bathtub, paddling pool or bowl, put a non-slip mat or even a regular towel. The dog will not slide then and will feel more confident. We pour warm water to a height We check the tummy with the elbow or not in front of a baby and, speaking tenderly to the dog, put him gently in the water.
We let him get used to the new situation, then gently pour water on him (except the head), apply the shampoo and gently wash the hair. You cannot rub the dog, because we will wind it with knots and break its hair. Rinse the shampoo and wash it in shampoo again. We talk nice to the dog all the time, we can kiss him, scratch his ear so as to give him as much pleasure as possible.
WE NEVER MAKE HASKY MECHANICAL MOVEMENTS BECAUSE WE WILL TAKE A DOG
Finally, wash your head. Be careful not to splash your eyes or nose, but also moisten all your hair very well. When rinsing the head, bend the muzzle to the chest, this is the natural posture of the dog, and it protects the ears and nostrils from getting into them by heavy rain.
After rinsing thoroughly and squeezing out the excess water, we can pour the conditioner on the pooch, also usually diluted in water. The dog needs a moment to form with the conditioner. (The conditioner is not obligatory)
During this time, you can check the teeth and ears. After a while, rinse the conditioner. Squeeze the excess water with your hands and wrap the dog in a towel. Never scrub your dog with a towel while drying it, just gently squeeze out the strands of hair. Some breeders use a shampoo to which they add a little dog oil, conditioner or liquid silk. This is to nourish the hair better and protect it better. It is similar with conditioners after a bath. Some of the conditioners are rinse-off, some can be left on the hair. Especially if you want to grow a long, unbroken hair, you will probably need to buy a conditioner or oil that will be left on the hair. The conditioner that stays on the hair protects the hair from rubbing, additionally weighs it down - the hair grows better. However, you have to be prepared for the fact that the dog will get dirty a little faster and need to be bathed more often. We do not exaggerate with baths, applying the principle of kicking when necessary, the less often the better.
Too frequent baths will remove the natural protective coating against soaking and dirt.
After drying the doggy with a towel, dry it with a dryer. You need to get your pet used to the dryer. The first time we try to dry it at the lowest speed, then the dryer is the quietest. :-) At the beginning, we don't blow our nose, because dogs don't like it the most. You can start combing dry hair. A good brush with rounded needles is best so as not to scratch the skin, but no balls at the ends. The balls tear and tear out the hair. A good brush should not cause static electricity. If your dog has long hair, use a comb with rotating teeth. After the initial combing, dry the dog. If it can stand up calmly, you can dry it by brushing. When combing, you need to pay special attention to the head. The hair behind the ears sticks the most. It is good to get your puppy used to lying on his back, e.g. on our lap. You can then brush the tummy and feet properly - here you can also quickly grow knots, when you brush "on the top". All activities related to drying and brushing are best done on a table or tabletop (the top must not be slippery, of course). Then we have easier access to the dog and at the same time he learns to stand calmly, which will be useful if we intend to participate in shows. After washing, the dog must be thoroughly dried. Strands of non-dried hair become fuller very quickly. The hair can be considered detangled, if we can pull each strand with a thin comb (from the skin itself!) And we do not encounter resistance.
Puppy care is not only about bathing.
You need to check your teeth, ears and claws on an ongoing basis, it is worth getting your toddler used to manipulating his mouth - it will be easy for us to take care of his teeth then. We use special dog toothpastes to brush our teeth. Never use human toothpaste. We probably won't teach a doggie to rinse his teeth and spit out the remaining toothpaste. The paste is eaten and the fluoride in the "human" paste can be very harmful to the dog. When cleaning the teeth, you can teach your dog to present the teeth at the exhibition.
About 4 months of age, a puppy sometimes changes its milk teeth permanently. During this time, it is worth checking what is happening in the mouth. Usually, the replacement of teeth takes place without any complications. Sometimes, however, a permanent tooth begins to grow when the "milk tooth" is still stuck in the socket. This is most often the case with canines. It is best to consult a doctor then. Sometimes it is necessary to remove the milk tooth. When replacing the teeth, do not invent crazy games for your puppy to drag himself with toys, etc. It is very easy to tear a tooth out in a wild game or by constant jerking cause deformation of the bite. Most often it concerns the incisors of the lower jaw. :-)
Ear care is very important, it consists in cleaning the ears with special preparations available at the vet or in the pet store It does not hurt the dog, only small puppies have sensitive turbinates, therefore this procedure is not performed for the little ones. Most ear problems stem from oversight. If the ear canal is overgrown with hair, ear wax collects in it, and very often the ear is constantly wet. Sooner or later yeast will develop in such an ear, and later it will lead to more serious complications. The hair is very easy to remove with your fingers. It is caught after 2-3 and pulls out vigorously, these hairs must not be cut, they will grow out harder and irritate the delicate skin of the auricle. Anyway, we'll cut only the part of the hair sticking out of the ear and the part of the ear canal will remain blocked anyway. We use special preparations to clean the ears.
We usually check the anal sinuses when visiting the vet. Improper rummaging around the bays can hurt your dog. Symptoms of full sinuses are similar to the symptoms of worming. The doggie will sledge or lick himself constantly or otherwise show interest in that part of the body.
You should not clean the sinuses unnecessarily because you will fall into the so-called vicious circle.
HOME PREPARATION FOR THE ARRIVAL OF THE PUPPY. Before the puppy arrives, let's take a look around our house. The apartment usually needs to be cleaned up a bit :-) Whenever possible, in the rooms where the puppy will stay, it is better to remove large carpets from the floor. Just in case, and only for the first few days when the puppy may produce puddles.
Our little ones know the rules of hygiene, but in the new home they may have a problem with locating the "toilet" on the first day
The dog must also find a place for bedding, a place to eat, and a place for a "toilet" until all vaccinations have been made.
Let's pay attention to electric wires, especially extension cords, an amused toddler can pee on him and he will be electrocuted, protect stairs, chemical cabinets and poisonous plants that we sometimes grow in pots. A toddler may also try to find books or newspapers from lower shelves. Let us especially make children watch out for what they throw on the floor, such a small dog is like a vacuum cleaner, it pulls everything in and it is not difficult for a tragedy to happen.
BASIC EQUIPMENT FOR A PUPPY
- bowls for food and drink. A bowl for a spaniel it should be rather tall in the shape of a cone due to this so that he does not wet his ears but stays outside.
Metal or ceramic, stable and quite heavy will be the best. Bowls with rubber on the bottom are good - the bowl does not wander around the room when you eat. Double bowls with a compartment for food and water will not work. Of course, the bowls should be kept clean. Water must be available ALL THE TIME.
-Bikacja Remember that if the dog does not have a complete vaccination set, you must not walk with the dog. Our little ones are taught to take care of their needs for the undercoat (available at the pharmacy). The underlay is best placed in the farthest corner from the bed, and preferably if there is a bathroom next to the room where the dog is, let's open the door to him.
If you put it directly next to its lair, it will treat it as a lying sidewalk
Always put the underlay in the same place, you can stick it to the floor with double-sided tape. Show this place to the dog, let him smell, if he pisses elsewhere, soak his pee in the undercoat and put him on it again.
-Dog Food
-towel
-basic cosmetics for cleaning the ears and bath
Dermatisan Aurisal Silver 75Ml Preparation For Ear Hygiene With Silver
The preparation is intended for the hygiene and care of the external auditory canal and the auricle The ingredients contained in the preparation allow for quick removal of earwax and have an effect anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal and keratoplastic.
-comb, rubber glove
-cippers for shortening claws
- toy scissors, teethers I recommend natural leather, remember that smoked teethers are over 6 months old.
• Each puppy should receive a health booklet with entries on worming and vaccinations. Each entry should be confirmed with a stamp of a veterinarian. On the basis of the entries, the doctor who carries the puppy further should establish a further vaccination schedule. In consultation with the doctor, the dog should also be systematically dewormed and protected against fleas and ticks.
Our babies are protected against fleas for 3 months and against ticks for three weeks.
Small puppies up to six months old are dewormed every month, older puppies every six months if they have contact with children every three months.
The puppy leaves the kennel with the current vaccination appropriate for its age. Remember that the set of vaccinations is:
three vaccinations in the early program and two vaccinations in the standard or late program.
The first vaccination is always the responsibility of the breeder, if the dog is older, it is vaccinated twice or three times
The doggie has full immunity only after the last one vaccination and 10-day quarantine. Going for a walk with your dog earlier is condemning him to a cruel death.
Every year, apart from the obligatory rabies, it is worth vaccinating the dog against viral diseases.
REMEMBER !!!
NEVER HIT A DOG, DON'T YELL AT HIM
BECAUSE YOU WILL TEACH HIM TO BE AFRAID OF YOU.
ALWAYS Praise HIM WHEN HE DOING SOMETHING GOOD, FEEL HIM,
SPEAK TO HIM with a nice voice.
YOU RECEIVE A HEALTHY AND JOYFUL DEMO PUPPING,
Praised for good things.
THE FIRST STAGE HAS BEEN BY THE KIDS
WHEN WE HAVE BEEN ISOLATED FROM MOTHER AND BABY, HE WILL LONG
IF YOU SHOW HIM A LOT OF LOVE, CARE, AND CONSIDERATIONS
YOU WILL GAIN A GORGEOUS A COMPANY OF PLAY AND A DEAR FRIEND
We wish you You have a lot of fun with your puppy !!!!
M and D Robak
CONTACT
TEL 796571375
* Remember that the breeder knows "his child" best. If there is something wrong with you, contact us before visiting the vet.
* We will be glad if you share your joys and information about development with us
and the health of our pupil. It will be nice to see him in the photos.
* In the event that, for any reason, you cannot still be the owner of the pooch acquired from us, remember that he has the right to return to his family home at any age and at any age.
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